Tony and Lucille's, Wooster St., New Haven

I have not been to this Wooster Street classic in probably 20 years - but I have to say, I just went back tonight, and it was great! People seem to love it or hate it. It's kind of like when I was growing up and eating my own family's incredible Italian food. At first, our waitress, who identified herself as one of the family, seemed a little put off by our questions and requests. But when we started treating her like part of our family, she started treating us like part of hers. I love this famiglia approach. I ordered a martini, which was kind of tiny, out of the 1950's, not like the usual fishbowl kind served up these days. So I ordered a second one. It showed up complete with shaker - enough for maybe three martini's - Since I was driving, I left half of it there. But it's a good an example of the quirkiness of the place. I read a review which said the customer complained there wasn't enough shrimp in their shrimp dish, and they showed up with an extra plateful. I have a feeling the complaint could just as easily ended them up with nothing. The place has got CHARACTER with a capital C. If you don't like character, go elsewhere. but I think it's part of the fun. But if character isn't your thing, my other favorite Italians in New Haven include Consiglio's (across the street on Wooster, smaller, more elegant in decor) Scoozzi - a more stylish Italian place that caters to the Yale crowd- on Chapel Street in downtown New Haven, and Basta - a tiny place also on Chapel that does things to perfection. All of these places rival many good New York Italians, including the ones on Arthur Ave. Mangia!